A new fragrance for men by Gucci, Guilty Absolute might sound like another version of the same Gucci collection of the same name. Even naming "absolute" is a boring thing. But hey! Forget the last years of stale and uncreative versions that drowned the brand in symmetry. Gucci Guilty Absolute is truly a luxury fragrance that tries to find its way into mainstream markets in a bottle that can be recognized at one glance by the amazing brand. So, what's so special about this fragrance? Woods, leather and patchouli in massive doses with a touch of shamelessly sexy, that is.
Born out of the close collaboration between Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas, Gucci Guilty Absolute is an ode to leather done in a very realistic way, going much further in smoky cognac notes, with a sensual undertone that evokes the beast from within. In fact, leather is one of the most important elements in the Gucci fashion collection and this perfume is like liquefied leather inside a bottle.
Lately, we have seen some well-known brands like Baldessarini play with niche concepts in the perfume world and in the end it yielded great results with the perfume. Ultimate . But attempts to raise expectations in the mainstream market are scarce. But Gucci pioneered it during the Tom Ford era with my perfume Rush And Gucci Pour Homme , for example. But it stopped. Now, after many years, the Italian brand is bringing a rather deep, sultry composition to the market, with the same luxurious spirit plus some innovation. And yes, I wouldn't be surprised if you found this scent and this fragrance in any of the niche brands during an upcoming show like Esxence or Piti.
Alberto Morillas created here the fusion of two main raw materials in a composition that is not traditionally classified in the aromatic pyramid from top and heart to base as always. The scent is non-linear and reveals its character from the first moments, changing a few elements as it evolves. The two main notes here are woody and leather, which is a chemical scent that emits leather accords and then golden woods which is a molecule with a rich woody scent. To this, he added a natural extract of cypress. The result is a very dry aromatic woody scent that tends to smell like violet leaves in the first moments. This first impression isn't the best part, and it may lead you to think it's a smell you've repeated many times before. But soon it goes away and reveals the essence of the fragrance that is very close to oud perfumes in fact. To add depth, I add three different types of patchouli oil, and a sweet, earthy and deep base. Vetiver and woody notes with earthy tones finish this artistic palette.
Gucci Guilty Absolute is a shy cousin to some of the mega oud fragrances we've seen in the more promising sectors, referring to a softer, wearable version of Tiziana Terenzi's Ursa adapted for a wider audience. It manages to evoke the notes of the oud in fact without actually having the oud in its composition, but even that is nothing new. Let's remember Baruti's NOOUD , another scent that smells like oud without a drop of it inside the composition
The bottle of this new edition is basically the same as in all previous editions of the Guilty collection. This time a transparent bottle, highlighting the lines of the original design in a truly elegant design filled with a clear brown liquid that looks like cognac. The packaging comes in a brown tobacco box. Jared Leto is the face of the fragrance campaign, in a campaign photographed by Glenn Luchford.
Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating perfume as contemporary art. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, and writes texts for museums and galleries. He is a vintage perfume collector and organizes regular talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing and Olfatto L'Amore. Honorable member of the International Perfume Bottle Association. He did workshops for brands such as Versace, Grès, Roger & Gallet and Florescent. He also writes on beauty and grooming for Beautyalmanac.com . He is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica.com.br .